Most Common Dog Skin Problems

Many people, who own a pet dog, often feel troubled with their pet’s ear or skin health related complications, known as dog skin problems. Just like what I often experience on my pet.

I find it hard to deal with such problem because of the lack of information I know about the conditions. However, due to the strong passion I have for my dog, I try really hard in order to find the proper cure for the skin condition of my pet.

I was able to discover a lot of things about the condition of my dog through performing several researches about it.

Just like human beings, I have discovered that gods are also vulnerable to different skin conditions, which may further develop because of parasites, infection, allergies or any other symptoms that are relevant to dog illnesses.

As we often say, skin is the reflection of the overall health of a dog from which whenever there is a dog skin problem, he will react with the alteration in his behavior or displaying symptoms of irritation.

Common Skin Problems for Dogs

It is a common thing for my pet to have flaky, itchy and dry skin because of low levels or humidity and dry air. Thus, during the winter season, the pet might demonstrate signs of discomfort and itchiness.

These skin conditions should not be a cause of panic because it can only be combated with the basic guidelines for dog grooming.

Aside from having dry skin, few of the usual dog skin problems includes the following:

Food Allergies

Most common ingredients for dog food, the same can be said about a bearded dragon diet and care, such as food coloring, meat, substitutes and fillers, might draw allergic reactions to the dog’s skin. Therefore, you should only purchase from a reliable and popular brand, or you may also try supplying your pet with home-made food.

Seasonal Allergies

These seasonal allergies, related to dog skin problems, pertain to the allergic reaction on the skin of the dog. It comes out when the pet gets contact with some environmental agents such as weeds, grasses, pollen, etc. These dog skin issues are generated only in specific months of a year. So, it is where it acquires the name seasonal allergies.

Atopic Dermatitis

This is another condition that is relevant to dog skin problems. This is actually a persistent dog skin allergy, which causes itching symptoms within the ear, surrounding the muzzle, eyes, and any other particular areas. Being an inherited skin problem for dogs, this dermatitis does not have any cure, yet avoiding antihistamines; immunotherapy and allergens may help in fighting the symptoms.

Flea Bites

Mites and fleas are other primary reasons why skin issues in dogs are taking place. There are some dogs that are oversensitive to the saliva of the flea, which triggers rashes, scratching and itching. Some cures have demonstrated efficient outcomes for treating the skin irritations, which are caused by mites and fleas.

These are only some of the skin conditions that I have researched when learning about the condition of my own dog. They also have a lot of adverse effects to the overall health of dogs, which makes treating dog skin problems a crucial thing.

The History of the Australian Cattle Dog

The Australian Cattle Dog has a history in Australia. George Hall came to New South Wales at the turn of the 19th century. The family had set up a couple of cattle stations, and they were expanding northward. It was hard getting the cattle into the markets in Sydney, and it was a problem because there were thousands of heads of cattle that had to go thousands of miles over areas that were unfenced, rugged, and mountainous. There was a note written by him that let out his rage at losing so many heads of cattle.

He needed a kind of droving dog, but the working dogs in the colony were like the English Sheepdog. There are some descendants of these breeds that are still around, but they were only functional over small spans and for basic work in the yard with cattle that were domesticated. He solved the quandary by bring in several dogs that were used by the drovers in his parents’ native county. During that period, dogs were usually described by the kind of job they had, whether or not they were understood as a breed. Over time, a family history gave these dogs a moniker.

He bred the drovers with tamed dingoes, and he was happy with the breed. Over the ensuing three decades, they were just used by the family, and they were called Halls Heelers. They completely relied on them, and the dogs got them an edge over other breeders of cattle around them. It makes sense that they weren’t sent out beyond Hall’s properties. It wasn’t until after he died, when his farms sold with the contents of them on them, that the dogs became publicly available.

In the late 1800s, the breed had attracted some serious attention by a club in Sydney, and they had a personal interest of competitive show dog breeding. None of these people were stock men that worked with dogs on a regular basis, and they were at first curious about a number of working dogs, and not just the Australian Cattle Dog. They were the ones that came up with the moniker, Australian Cattle Dog, to describe the dogs that were bred from Halls’ Heelers.

The biggest club members focused on breeding different bloodlines. The Bagusts did the most work. The initial breed standard was published in 1903.  Breed clubs started to adopt the standard, and they re-made it as if it was theirs, with some small changes. He wrote a lot in the 1910s, and they give serious windows into the breed’s early history. There was one dog breeder that contested Kaleski’s writings, and she observed that his thoughts are often only that, and he brought in several contradictory assertions in latter days, and some opinions that were irrational in the background of contemporary science. Some of those thoughts have carried on. For instance, he thought the red color was more prominent when there was excess dingo in the breed, and there was a persistent thought that reds were more dangerous than blues.


One of the myths of Kaleski related to the infusions of the Kelpie and Dalmation into the first Cattle Dog breed. The infusions were not written about until later years, in the ‘20s, and it seemed that Kaleski wanted to give an explanation of the tan legs and mottled coloration by their connection to the Kelpie and Dalmation. The coat color genetics and hereditary features would make the idea of the infusion of the Dalmation to enhance the cattle dog’s tolerance to horses very unlikely. There were very few cars in Australia in the early 1900s, so most of the dogs were around horses naturally. The Kelpie breed came out once the Cattle Dog was already introduced, so it’s highly unlikely that it was infused. There might have been some Bull Terrier infusion, but there’s no confirmed account of this, and breed does not have the instinct to hold and bite like the Bull Terrier, and that would’ve been an uncool trait.

In the early 1990s, there was a lot of fighting with the members of the club, and there were a lot of debates about the breed’s origin that were in the journals and newspapers at the time. While a lot of these points were misguided, some illogical, and the vast majority not bolstered by the facts of history, they are still circulating around, and there have been a lot of stories about the breed’s origins. In current years, information technology has given the ability for people to use big databases and canine genetics knowledge to get a better knowledge of the breed’s development.

Near the end of the 19th century, the Australian Cattle Dogs that were derivations of Halls’ Heelers were witnessed in Queensland dog breeders’ kennels, and they were different from the dogs that were seen in other countries. When the Royal Shows started again after the Second World War, exhibitors in Sydney observed Little Logic for the very time. In the ‘50s, there were not many Australian Cattle Dogs that weren’t from the Little Logic descendants though. The popularity and successes of these dogs caused the increase of the Queensland Heeler nickname.

The dominance of these two lines of the current Australian Cattle Dogs were spread out by Wooleston Kennels. For about two decades, Wooleston offered the additional breeding stock and found to breeders in the country, the United States, and Europe. Because of this, the Wooleston Blue Jack is part of the ancestry of most Australian Cattle Dogs that were bred since 1990.

ACD In the United States

In the ‘40s, a veterinarian from Sydney, put the Kangaroo Hound, German Shepherd, Kelpie, and Dingo into the breeding program. The RASKC wouldn’t have an official breed as the Australian Cattle Dogs, even though they were consistent with temperament, color, and conformation, according to Alan McNiven. Mr. McNiven gave a response by giving dogs some registration papers that came from dogs who had already died, and he was kicked out from the RASKC, and his dogs were taken out of the registry. Another cattle rancher who saw Mr. McNiven while he was fighting in World War II in Australia, had brought in lots of adults and different McNiven litters. After they were de-registered, McNiven continued in exporting his dogs that were ‘improved’ in the U.S. Lots of U.S. solders who were put in Australian during World War II found the Australian Cattle Dog, and they took the breed home when they came back from the war.In the ‘50s, a Santa Rosa, California veterinarian saw all Lougher’s dogs. He took some partners, and he purchased lots of dogs and began breeding them. The breeders made advertisements, and they said that the dogs would definitely work, and he called them Queensland Heelers. Mr. Woolsey brought in lots of purebred Australian Cattle Dogs to put into the breeding program.

blue_cattle_dog1Australian Cattle Dogs were classified in a category called “miscellaneous” by the AKC in the 1930s. The get the complete breed recognition, the American Kennel Club made it necessary that a breed club would be set up for the protection and advertising of the breed. There was a parent club set up in 1969, and it had just a dozen members. One of the rules for the club was that they had to go with their registry for the dog breed, and the registry would need to function as a kind of extension for the Australian registry, going all the way back to the Australian registered dogs. The American Kennel Club parent club members had to start learning about their dogs, and this meant exchanging letters with McNiven, and they found that not many of them had animals that were traced all the way back to Australia. The American Kennel Club officially got control of the registry in the late 1970s, and the breed got completely recognized in 1980. The original Australian Cattle Dog Club of America is still an active participation in the advertising and protection of the breed, and in the upkeep of breed standards, however. The National Stock Dog Registry kept on recognizing Cattle Dogs that didn’t have any initial connections to Australian registered dogs, on the chance that a dog without known parentage that showed up for registry would need to get registration as the American Cattle Dog, and all the other ones would be continue to be registered as Australian Cattle Dogs.

ACD In Canada

The Australian Cattle Dog was officially recognized by the Canadian Kennel Club in 1980 after more than five years of earning pedigrees, building support, and breeders and enthusiasts working with officials. The minority of Australian Cattle Dogs in Canada then were mostly just working on ranches and farms, and they were spread out over long distances. The little breed club did agility and obedience competitions, held conformation shows, and set up their dogs in sports. In 1980, Landmaster Carina was the first Australian Cattle Dog that received both her obedience and conformation titles.

ACD In the United Kingdom

The first registered Australian Cattle Dog in the country was in 1980. The first Australian Cattle Dog in the United Kingdom was Landmaster Darling Red. Over the ensuing couple of years, there were more Australian Cattle Dogs brought into their country. The UK gene pool was reduced, however, because there were tough rules about artificial insemination. An Australian Cattle Dog club was formed in the country in 1986, and they then got official recognition by the Kennel Club. They had to do competition in an unclassified category before that. They were competing in working and obedience trails in throughout all the 1980s.

Cross breeds

There is a Texas Heeler, and it is a mix between the Australian Shepherd and the Australian Cattle Dog, and it was initially had registration with the Animal Research Foundation in 1970. The ARF had registered the dogs without any papers since 1965 as Australian Cattledog Queenslad Heelers, and it was first organization to officially recognize the Australian Shepherd. This dog was initially bred for working cattle, and the Texas Heeler is more and more used as a pet and companion in dog sports. As with all cross breeds, the Texas Heeler’s appearance and size is a changing combo of the parent breeds.

training your dog

Important Ideas for Training Your Dog

Training your dog the right way is important. Without training your dog to be a good animal or to interact in desirable ways in your household and with other people, you’re setting yourself up for a bad owner-pet relationship. But if you’re like many people, you aren’t confident that you know enough about training your dog in the correct ways. So, what follows are some important behavioral training principles and concepts.

When training your dog, remember that he will carry through with previous learned and reinforced behaviors. In other words, he’s been conditioned to behave in certain ways. Therefore, you have to focus on reinforcing and rewarding desirable behaviors while punishing (in non-abusive ways) bad behaviors. You cannot just let bad behavior slip by. Likewise, if you don’t reward and encourage desirable behaviors, soon enough your dog won’t have many of them.

Remember when you’re training your dog that each and every interaction can be a training session. So, depending on circumstances, with each dog interaction that you have reinforce desired behaviors or punish or discourage bad ones.

When you’re training your dog, realize that she finds your body language and tones of voice much more important than your words. Therefore, do not try to train her primarily through words. Instead, learn to focus on how she responds to various body language signals and tones of voice that you use. The slightest variations in how you attempt to train your dog matter, too. You’ll need to learn how to be very precise in your movements and techniques to get the behavioral results that you desire.

Many people think that positive reinforcement or rewards means giving food treats. But when it comes to training your dog, rewarding and giving positive reinforcement are about much more than that. Speaking in an affectionate tone of voice, petting, snuggling, playing fetch or some other type of fun activity are all ways of rewarding desired behavior. Remember that your notion of “desirable behavior” should usually mean behaviors that your dog finds to be fun or pleasurable.

When you go for a walk with your dog, remember that you’re still training your dog. Don’t let him just run off and do whatever he wants. You are the master; the dog must do what you say. Learn to balance keeping a tight leash (literally and figuratively) with letting your dog walks be times of fun and emotional bonding.

Use the above tips when training your dog. They work for puppies as well as for adult dogs.

health benefits of owning a dog

The Health Benefits of Owning a Dog

Dog owners may be able to spout off a handful of reasons why they love their dog, but now there’s research that proves the health benefits of owning a dog. If your child is asking for a dog, and you’re on the fence, check out these health benefits. Then you can go out and buy that puppy! (Where was this list when I was 12?)

Heart Health

Turns out dogs are good for your heart. Dog owners have been shown to have lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels. Some male dog-owners even recovered quicker from heart attacks than non-dog owners. Why? Dogs keep owners active with walks and play time, leading to healthier bodies.

Anxiety and Depression

Having a dog can help people with anxiety and/or depression (they usually go hand-in-hand) cope with negative emotions. They provide a distraction from daily worries; just being around a dog can boost feel good hormones in humans! Next time you’re feeling down, play with a dog.


Feeling lonely? Caring for another living thing, like a dog, is great for self-esteem. Pets are uncomplicated and love unconditionally. Even having something to talk to at home when you’re alone is therapeutic. I dare you to not talk like a baby to a newborn puppy!

Dogs are also very social. Every time I go on a walk my dog makes friends with passersby. I’ve started to notice people in my neighborhood and made friends with them because of Bruce.


Someone who has been in an accident and can’t function fully may benefit from a dog’s assistance. They can help them perform daily activities, reducing the need for dependence on others.

Overall Physical Health

If you have sedentary children, get them a dog! People with dogs are more active. Adults with dogs walk twice as much as other adults, shrinking waistlines and boosting immune systems. In fact, people with dogs don’t go to the doctor as much. And children who grow up in dog households have stronger immune systems earlier in life than those who don’t have dogs. And these are just a few of the major health benefits of owning a dog.

choosing a kennel

Welcoming Your New Puppy

When an eight week old puppy arrives in his new home, it is best to let him settle in before you begin his training. His surroundings are totally new to him – it’s his first time away from his brothers and sisters and his mum, so give him a chance to be a little afraid and lonely. He will settle as soon as he realizes that you are now his family.

Night Time Tears

It is to be expected that a puppy feel lonely for his family when he moves to his new home. This however, will not last long. Though we all feel sorry for the crying puppy in the middle of the night, it is important not to run to his side every time he cries.  Puppies can be very clever, and quickly learn that a little cry gains attention.  If you are sure that the puppy is not in pain or hungry, it is important for him to learn to be alone, especially when it is time for sleeping!!  One or two nights usually sees the puppy settle into the sleep routine.

My Place!

Make sure to have a comfortable place to put the puppy. Somewhere he can call his own, away from all the noise and people. Whether this place is inside your home or outside in his own little kennel, it must be dry, warm and free of droughts. Get him used to his little space by encouraging him to spend his rest time in there.


Puppies need to be fed little amounts, often. It is recommended that a puppy from 5 – 12 weeks be fed 4 times daily. From 12weeks to 6 months, three times daily, and from 6 months to 1year, twice daily.  From 1 year on wards, your dog can be fed once daily, however, some people prefer to feed twice daily. This is a general guide only and may not suit all breeds of dogs, or dogs that suffer from sensitive tummies. It also depends on what suits your dogs appetite, demands, and dietary requirements.  Talk to your breeder for recommendations and feeding guidelines that suit your particular breed of dog.

Toilet Training

When a puppy is eight weeks old, he has little or no control over his bladder and/or bowel movements, so it is unfair to expect much success at this early stage. However, you can start to give him the general idea. A puppy usually has to relieve himself just after eating and after play. Always let your puppy out at regular intervals, first thing in the morning and as late as possible at night. When he does his job outside in the desired spot, give him plenty of encouragement and praise. If you keep your dog inside, start the training by using newspaper, by placing it in the same place, such as near his bed. If he is looking uncomfortable or is sniffing about looking for somewhere to go, put him on the newspaper very gently. It is important not to frighten him, or he will go to a dark corner and do his business where you can’t see him. You may find the first weeks of the puppies training very trying, but with encouragement and patience, there is no reason why shouldn’t be successful sooner or later.

Don’t eat the Sofa!!

Puppies love to chew things, as you will see when they are chewing your shoes, the leg of the chair etc. If you catch your puppy chewing something he shouldn’t be chewing, tell him sharply to ‘stop it!’, and immediately give him something else to chew such as a rawhide bone or a toy. If you can keep an eye on him and stop him when he is chewing something he shouldn’t, he will soon learn what things belong to him and what doesn’t. Keep in mind that sometimes dogs chew because they are bored. Try to dissuade this habit by providing lots of mental stimulation for your dog i.e.: exercise, toys, attention etc.

Please Don’t Leave Me Alone!!!!

You can’t always bring your dog everywhere with you, so he must get used to being alone. Leave him when he is resting, and in his bed. He may whine a little, but eventually he will give in. Go to him after he has stopped whining and talk to him and reassure him. Repeat this each day, gradually extending the amount of time alone. Make sure he has had his exercise and that he has plenty of water and a toy to play with when you are gone. Make sure he cannot reach anything that could harm him, e.g: electrical cables, detergents etc..  If he scratches the door, or jumps at it, show him that you disapprove. He must understand that you don’t want to be with him at that time. This may seem cruel to a puppy who doesn’t want to be left alone, but it is of great importance that a puppy gets used to and becomes comfortable with being left alone, as sometimes it just can’t be avoided.

Meet the Existing Dog!!?

Though the arrival of a puppy to his new home can be a traumatic experience for the puppy, it often overlooked that this is also a traumatic experience for the existing dog, who is expected to welcome the new arrival into his territory with open arms.

Here are a few pointers that may help with the first introduction:

If your dog is very territorial, try to do the introducing in a neutral venue, for example; a friend’s house.

When introducing the new puppy, keep him on the lead. If the existing dog seems upset or stressed, remove the puppy and try again later. Don’t remove the existing dog; as it will only serve to reinforce his insecurities.

Try to stay calm and relaxed. This will encourage your dog to be the same. Let the two dogs get to know each other slowly. Never rush things, as they should grow to accept each other in time. Don’t leave them alone together until you are certain that the existing dog is comfortable with the puppy and that the puppy will be safe in his company.

How to Kennel Train Your Dog

How to Kennel Train Your Dog

There is the right way to kennel train you dog and there is the wrong way. Do you want your dog to be happy and content in his kennel? Do you want your dog safe? Of course, you want a well-behaved dog that is safe from harm!  The dog kennel is used for many reasons. It is used for housebreaking, to prevent destructive dog behavior, to keep your puppy safe from harm, and can be used when you travel but never as punishment!

First, choose the right kennel for your dog. Kennel size is very important! The inside kennel should only be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. With the right kennel size, your dog will not want to soil his bed which will mean a great deal when housebreaking him. Place the kennel in a quiet area avoiding high-traffic areas such as kitchens, hallways, or doorways.

The following is the proper way to kennel train your dog:

Kennel placement

Put the kennel in the same room that you will be relaxing in for awhile. If the dog has a favorite blanket you may put that into the kennel.

Get the dog willingly to go into the kennel

You want to entice the dog to go into the kennel on his own. To do this start a short distance from the create place a trail of very small treats leading into the back of the kennel. With the kennel door open bring your dog into the room. While he is in the kennel, put a few more treats in the back of the kennel. Allow him to come out on his own.

Close the kennel

When the dog has gone into the kennel, block the exit with your body after a few minutes allow him to exit. Repeat this step but close the door. Remember to praise the dog while in the kennel. Gently block him from leaving with your body. You can give him more treats but increase the time between each treat. After the dog relaxes and lies down let him out and take a break.

It is essential that you never gave him a chance to out of the case while he is whimpering or yapping. He should be completely calm before you let him out. If you let him out when he is misbehaving it teaches him that if he makes a fuss, he will be let out. If you make this mistake you may be in for many sleepless nights until the puppy decides to settle down. Instead, wait till he is quite and then greet him speaking softly (like “Hi Max.”) then open the door quietly and walk away.